Northern Shade Gardening

shady corner garden before

It’s immensely satisfying to plan and change your garden beds, making improvements, and adapting to the site. When I first moved in, this shady corner under the trees was very scraggly, as you can see above. I’ve gradually added shrubs and perennials, and now it is a much more lush garden area, even under the shade trees with a northern exposure. It’s fun to see the difference in your garden, and watch the progress from year to year as you make changes.

Although the before picture at the top was taken in April, it looked almost the same in the summer. There was a narrow 30 cm (1 foot) strip of garden, squeezed against the fence. It was partly planted with a weedy type of Achillea that flopped and spread rampantly. I removed all of the yarrow, since it spread into everything. There were tall trees in the garden, and grass in this corner, but nothing for a middle layer to bridge the two.

I’ve added shade tolerant plants to the garden bed, and enlarged it greatly. The area in the photo below, taken in July 2008, is about 6 m (20 feet) long and 1.5 m to 2.5 m (5 to 8 feet) wide. This section of the garden bed has mostly green and silver foliage, with blue and white flowers.

shady corner garden design 2008

Adding some shrubs has helped to make it a more interesting view at all levels. The shrubs have been slow growing, but each year they fill in that middle layer, linking the tree canopy to the ground level plants. Because of the shady exposure, I’ve added a Hydrangea paniculata ‘grandiflora’ (PG hydrangea), and a Hydrangea paniculata ‘Little Lamb’ (little lamb hydrangea). These shrubs bloom for an extended period in late summer, with large white flower panicles that brighten the garden bed, and don’t mind the shade. This photo was taken back in July, so the buds on the Hydrangeas were just starting.

On either side of the Hydrangea are groups of Matteuccia struthiopteris (ostrich ferns), which thrive in the site, and grow 1.2 m (4 feet) tall. They make a green backdrop to the bed. I especially respect the way these unfurl so quickly in the spring, producing their elongated fronds so soon after the snow has melted. After six months of snow, fast greening is an excellent trait. The far group of ostrich ferns grew so well, I had to move them away from the fence this summer. They resented the move, and sulked for the rest of the summer, gradually losing one small section of leaflet at a time. I hope when they come back in spring that all is forgiven, and they grow tall and green again.

Campanula poscharskyana 'Camgood' closeup stars

The largest Hydrangea is underplanted with Campanula poscharskyana ‘Camgood’ (blue waterfall bellflower). These Serbian bellflowers tolerate the shade well under shrubs. As a groundcover, they fill in and suppress the weed growth underneath, while creating a nice green floor for the shrub. The pretty blue flowers of the Campanula compliment the white hydrangea blooms.

The birdbath in the centre of this shade garden is one of my favourites. It has a hexagonal shape, with a small carved frog perches on waterlily leaves in the bowl. It is a favourite of the birds too.

Heuchera 'Mint Frost', Pulmonaria, Campanula

On the other side of the birdbath are  shade plants I picked for foliage or flowers. The silver foliage of Pulmonaria ‘Samourai’ (lungwort)  is just visible under the edge of the birdbath in this shot. Just beyond the Pulmonaria are some Heuchera ‘Mint Frost’ (coral bells). Their green and silver leaves look good next to the Pulmonaria. Beyond that, at the front of the bed, are a variety of small Campanula, with blue and white flowers, including the Campanula cochlearifolia (fairy thimble bellflower) shown below. At the far end on the left side, you can see the double flowering Campanula cochlearifolia ‘Elizabeth Oliver’. Even though they are at quite a distance, and the plants are very small, the many double flowers show up well. There are groups of Campanula rotundifolia (harebells) and Campanula carpatica (Carpathian bellflowers) at the front edge of the bed. All of these shade plants have adapted very well to the site.

Campanula cochlearifolia, Heuchera

At the far end are an unknown iris that is fairly shade tolerant. This iris was in another part of the garden when I moved in, and I have divided it and moved it around to a number of spots because it is so easy going. Behind the iris are some ferns, some more Matteuccia struthiopteris, and Athyrium ‘Ghost’  (ghost fern).

The garden bed has been expanded and changed many times, including last summer and fall. Since this photo, I’ve added some Cimicifuga ramosa ‘Atropurpurea’ (bugbane) to the back of the bed. This tall growing perennial has foliage with a slight purple tinge, and will get spires of white wands. Cimicifuga are great shade plant for the back of the border.

The shape of the bed has also changed since the July 2008 photo. Here it has a curving border, but now it comes out wider and the front edge is straight across, until it curves behind the pine. I cut the front edge of the bed with an edger, actually an ice breaker that gets summer use in the garden. I usually re-cut the edge about twice a year to keep the grass and garden separate. There is a small trench inside the edge that is filled with mulch, to keep the grass out of the bed. I couldn’t put a permanent edging around my beds, because their shape and size change continually.

Here is an earlier post I wrote about  changing a side garden bed.

Does the design of your  garden beds constantly change, either their shape or plants? Do you make a plan and keep it the same for years, or do your garden beds evolve over time?

front yard conifers

When winter snow lasts for half of the year, conifers are a remembrance that the white doesn’t last forever, and that buried underneath there are dormant green plants that will emerge eventually. Without the conifers, winter would be a vista of twigs and houses. I enjoy walking down the street and admiring the pretty sight of snowy evergreen branches on front lawns. They create a verdant background all year, provide privacy, and are an excellent habitat for birds.

Here are my large spruce trees, filling most of the front yard with green boughs. My spruce wear their branches right down to the ground, which makes a natural and full silhouette. The grass doesn’t grow underneath them, but the snowy boughs look much better in the winter than snow-covered grass. Natural spruce trees, with all of their branches, make a very tall groundcover.

These trees tower over the house. From a landscaping point of view, they are out of scale, and obscure the view of the house. However, from a forest lover’s point of view, I enjoy the woodsy atmosphere in the middle of the suburbs. I am thankful the previous owner had the foresight to plant trees for the future.

Picea closeup

When I look out my front windows I can imagine that I live in an evergreen forest. I can watch the birds on the branches, blue jays scolding, or chickadees chattering and flitting from branch to branch. In the fall, the squirrels are very busy storing away the spruce cones. One squirrel made a precariously balanced pile of cones under the willow in the backyard. I’m not sure why he bothered running back and forth to the backyard, instead of just storing them conveniently under the curtained safety of the spruce  tree.

The spruce produce numerous cones at their top, which scatter around the tree on  windy days. I gather the cones and use them to mulch a hidden area to the east side of the house, about 6 m (20 ft) long and 1 m (3 ft) wide. Perhaps the squirrel has admired my large stash of cones. Maybe he’s even raided it for his own supply. The spruce and pine needles fall onto a narrow sidewalk that leads to my backyard. I often sweep the needles off the walk into the adjacent north facing garden area, making a natural and easy woodland mulch for the front bed.

Pinus mugo (mugho pine)

There is the base of an overgrown Pinus mugo (mugho pine) in my front yard. It is taller than the house, and forms a green curtain between the street and my front window, blocking noise, attracting birds, and presenting another forest view. The mugho pine has a tangle of lower branches, and long, soft needles. The dwarf mugho pines, that have been kept small by breaking the outer third of their new candles, look neat and cute in a garden bed, like small green statues. This older, taller Pinus mugo has not had its candles cut back,  and the inside lower trunks make a forest of their own. The curved multiple trunks arising from the base form a living woodland sculpture.

While the front of the pine has a wall of green needles, the lower needles at the back are mostly gone in this shady spot, making for easier viewing from the house of the birds, which like to flit about on the protected branches. There are small middens of cone scales under the tree. The branches make a comfortable place for an animal to break open cones to get at the seeds, and the scales fall in small piles beneath.

Pine branch

A tall straight pine grows in the corner of my backyard. Its branches are lacy, casting a partial shadow on the plants below. The long needles are attractive. This evergreen gives me something green and beautiful to view, when I look out on the bleakest winter days. The pine also gives some privacy, when all of the deciduous trees have dropped their leaves to survive the winter. Sometimes in summer, a robin likes to perch on the topmost branch, proclaiming its territory from the tallest point around.

Taxus media hicksii (yew)

This upright evergreen is Taxus media ‘Hiksii’, one of the many small yews in the garden. In summer, they practically disappear in the garden, serving more as a green backdrop. However in winter, they are the little green jewels, rising above the snow. While the yews are tolerant of shade, the ones in deeper shade are about half the size of the ones in medium shade.

Taxus media 'Nigra'

I also have some Taxus media ‘Nigra’, which are a darker green yew, and a bit more spreading than upright. The soft needles are particularly attractive. There is less browning and die back on the yews over the winter than on junipers. The yews also fill in their bare patches, maintaining a more attractive shape. Taxus media are a good yew for zone 3, since some other yews are borderline or not hardy here.

I love my conifers. They bring wildlife, privacy and beauty to the garden year round. I appreciate them most in the winter, when the colour green is rare, and especially treasured. Do you grow any conifers? Which are your favourites?

Helleborus 'Ivory Prince', Adiantum pedatum, Brunnera 'Jack Frost'

Here are the new shade perennials tucked into their beds. Many already have a colourful quilt of leaves snuggled around them, courtesy of the trees. I liked the look of these shade combinations as I planted, so it was hard to stop digging and adding more. I had the greatest urge to plant the whole yard. It’s a good thing the more seasonal cold weather is returning to my Northern garden, putting an end to my additions.

This photo shows the new Helleborus ‘Ivory Prince’ (Lenten rose) next to the Adiantum pedatum (maidenhair fern), and in front of The Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ (Jack Frost Siberian bugloss).  I like the look of these 3 leaf types together, the fine textured fern, large heart shaped Brunnera and stiff, scalloped Helleborus. They look great in the shade, even without any flowers yet. When I saw the Helleborus in the ground under the tree, I was smitten, and went back to the nursery for more.

Helleborus 'Ivory Prince', Athyrium 'Ghost', Brunnera

Here is a picture of the Helleborus ‘Ivory Prince’ with Athyrium ‘Ghost’ (ghost fern) and Brunnera ‘Looking Glass’ (Looking Glass Siberian bugloss) in the shade under a tree. Right now the fern and Looking Glass are fading to brown, and dying down for the  year. The Helleborus have a subtle decorative pattern around the veins. I think they will look good next year with the silver tones of the fern and B. ‘Looking Glass’ when the new foliage comes in the spring. The pretty blue flower of the Brunnera, and white flowers of the Helleborus will be a bonus. The bloom times should overlap, but I’ll find out next year.

Helleborus 'Ivory Prince', Brunnera 'Jack Frost'

This shot is a closeup of the Helleborus and Brunnera together. The Helleborus leaves looks perfect, even though they have been hanging out in a pot all season. The Jack Frost foliage looks better and better every month, right up until October.

Epimedium grandiflorum 'Lilafee' (lilac fairy)

Here is an unexpected glimpse of spring. When I bought these plants at the end of the season, I thought they would die back rapidly. I was pleasantly surprised that this Epimedium grandiflorum ‘Lilafee’ (lilac fairy barrenwort) developed a flower after I brought it home, and here it is blooming, as if it was spring. We have had incredibly warm weather for the past 2 weeks, but the frost that is supposed to come in a few days should show the Epimedium what season it really is. When I saw how pretty the bloom on ‘Lilafee’ looked, I went back to get more, but they were all gone. If these overwinter well, I will be adding more next year.

Epimedium grandiflorum 'Lilafee' (lilac fairy)

Here is the Epimedium grandiflorum ‘Lilafee’ behind Athyrium niponicum ‘Pictum’ (Japanese painted fern). There are four painted ferns paired with the Epimedium in the shade.

Geranium 'Rozanne'

The Geranium ‘Rozanne’ are in a grouping under a lilac. I rate them an ‘Excellent’ for effort, putting up new blooms at the end of fall after just being planted. These perennials are good sports, and very accommodating. I hope they prove to be good sports about the winter cold too.

Cimicifuga ramosa 'Atropurpurea' (bugbane)

These Cimicifuga ramosa ‘Atropurpurea’ (bugbane) (now classified as Actaea) look very small, even though they came out of large pots with well developed roots. The tall stems had already been cut back in their pots, and these were the new leaves developing. The Cimicifuaga I planted last year grew 1.2 m (4 feet) tall this year, with their unopened flower wands towering up to 1.5 m (5 feet). I hope these are equally tall next year for the back of the border, while displaying their purple tinged leaves.

Heuchera 'Mint Frost'

The bed along the north fence used to have gentle curves to it. Each time I added to the bed, I redesigned the curves. After redoing the edges last spring, the curves were no longer sweeping, but too scalloped. This fall I dug a straight line across, instead, and I planted a group of Heuchera ‘Mint Frost’ in a bare area in front. I also moved some Campanula carpatica (Carpathian bellflower) forward that were getting squished by some developing phlox.

Asarum europaeum (European ginger)

I expanded this patch of Asarum europaeum (European ginger), digging out more grass near the tree trunk. I adore the glossy perfection of these round leaves. They glisten, whether it’s been raining or not. The original patch seems to have no trouble handling shade or tree roots. They are a terrific shady ground cover, and should fill in over the next few seasons.

Hydrangea paniculata 'DV PInky' (Pinky Winky)

Here is Hydrangea paniculata ‘DV Pinky’ (Pinky Winky hydrangea), planted at one end of my front bed. I transplanted numerous Convallaria majalis (lily of the valley) underneath it. They look a little worse for wear now, but the hydrangea is fresh and perky. I put a layer of fallen pine needles around it for mulch. The pine tree is right next to the shrub, so I just brushed the needles off of the the sidewalk into the bed, and called it mulch. Being a new shrub, it has some buds that are out of step with the season. I wonder if they will fully open, or be nipped by the frost?

A few of the plants seem a little oddly spaced, because of the tree roots. The trees and I came to a compromise. They kept their large roots exactly where they wanted them, and I planted in between.

Since it gets dark so early now, some nights I was planting by the glow of the motion security lights. When I went behind the willow to plant the Polygonatum commutatum ‘Giganteum’ (giant solomon’s seal), the light went out. I dropped one of them, and its stem broke off. In the dim light, I picked it up, guessed which way was up, and put it in the ground. I may have broken gardening rule # 1, Green Side Up. That’s when you know it’s time to go inside.

Planting in the fall means I have to wait until next year to see how the new beds will look, as they fill in and mature. This is normally late for planting in my zone, but some warm weather and good sales got me in the digging mood. Here is a previous post I wrote describing these new shade perennials. Do you plant more in spring or in the fall?